Andersen Geneve Unique Piece Minute-Repeating Perpetual Calendar
Record status
Individual type · partial
Period
1990
This unique 18K yellow gold wristwatch, produced in 1990, features both minute-repeater and perpetual calendar complications. The watch is signed Andersen, Geneve on the dial, while the rhodium-plated movement, numbered 36363, is signed by Henry Capt, Genève.
The construction includes a two-body case with cast bezel and lug decoration, and a transparent back. It houses a 31-jewel movement with fausses cotes decoration, wolf’s tooth winding, a bimetallic compensation balance, and a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement. The watch is accompanied by an 18K yellow gold buckle and an integrated strap setting pin. The piece is approximately 37 mm in diameter and 12 mm in thickness.
Evidence at a glance
- Linked sources
- 1
- Photograph views
- 1
- Catalogue references
- 0
Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.
Technical characteristics
- Type
- Minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch
- Maker
- Andersen, Geneve
- Case material
- 18K yellow gold
- Complications
- Minute-repeater, perpetual calendar, leap year, retrograde date, moon phases
- Movement maker
- Henry Capt, Genève
- Place recorded
- Switzerland
- Dial decoration
- Engine-turned gold
- Movement serial
- 36363
- Maker / attribution
- Andersen Geneve
- Year of manufacture
- 1990
Design
- Visible features
- • Cast decorative pattern on bezel and lugs • Blued steel baton hands • Subsidiary dial layout with retrograde date scale • Transparent case back
- Case and Dial Design
- The watch features a two-body case constructed from 18K yellow gold. The external aesthetic is defined by cast patterns applied to both the bezel and the lugs, creating a textured finish. The design incorporates sapphire crystals and a transparent back, which also features a border decorated to match the bezel. A setting pin is integrated into the strap to facilitate calendar adjustments. The dial is engine-turned gold paired with a matte silvered chapter ring displaying radial Roman numerals. It serves as a base for multiple complications, including a retrograde date scale and two subsidiary dials indicating the days of the week and the months. Additionally, apertures provide visibility for the four-year cycle and the moon phases, with a lunar calendar printed along the edge.
- Movement Construction
- The timepiece is powered by a rhodium-plated movement signed by Henry Capt, Genève. It features a 31-jewel configuration and is decorated with fausses cotes. Mechanical features include wolf's tooth winding, a bimetallic compensation balance, and a Breguet balance spring. The watch is regulated by an index regulator and utilizes a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement. The minute-repeater functionality is operated via a slide on the band, allowing the watch to strike the time on gongs. The movement is cataloged as a 12??? caliber, reflecting the size as described in the source documentation. All functions operate within the context of the perpetual calendar mechanism.
- Condition and Attribution
- The auction description reports the condition of the object components using a specific grading system. The case is graded as 2, indicating it is in very good condition. Similarly, the movement is graded as 2, also described as very good. The dial is classified as 1-01, described as being in 'as new' condition. The blued steel baton hands are noted as original. The object is attributed to the workshop of Svend Andersen, who founded his own studio in 1979 following a career that included time at Patek Philippe. The watch is identified as a unique piece from 1990, reflecting Andersen's approach to creating complicated horological objects.
Identification
- Serial number
- 36363
- Source note
- Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.
Catalogue references
No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.
Research required
- Research required: The source refers to the movement as 12???, suggesting an incomplete or illegible specification in the cataloging process.
- Research required: The specific historical origin of the Henry Capt movement blank is not detailed beyond the signature.