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Cartier Art Déco 'Tutti Frutti' Chatelaine Watch

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

circa 1925

Maker / issuer

Cartier

This Art Déco chatelaine watch, signed Cartier Paris and dated circa 1925 by Christie's, features a Tutti Frutti motif set in platinum. The assembly comprises an angular brooch suspension clip fitted with a single pinstem, a tapering decorative drop, and an octagonal watch case measuring 2.1 cm in width.

The piece is set with old- and single-cut diamonds, round and sugarloaf cabochon rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, alongside red enamel and onyx elements. The watch has a circular dial with an emerald center plaque, Roman numerals, and a red enamel border. The total length measures 9.0 cm, with an overall gross weight of 38.41 grams.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources
1
Photograph views
1
Catalogue references
0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Type
Chatelaine watch
Movement
Mechanical movement
Materials
Platinum (850‰), diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, red enamel, onyx
Signature
Cartier Paris
Dimensions
Length 9.0 cm, case width 2.1 cm, dial diameter 16.0 mm
Gross Weight
38.41 grams
Place recorded
France
Maker / attribution
Cartier

Design

Visible features
• U-shaped geometric Art Déco suspension clip set with diamonds and an emerald accent • Tapering drop element featuring tiered multi-colored sugarloaf and cabochon gemstones bordered by diamonds • Small circular watch face with a translucent green hexagonal or rounded emerald center plaque, Roman numerals, and an outer red enamel ring • Diamond-set octagonal watch bezel with small cabochon gemstone accents at the compass points
Physical Assembly and Design
This Art Déco chatelaine watch is structured in three primary segments: a suspension clip fitted with a single pinstem, a tapering drop element, and a central octagonal watch case. The total length of the assembly is 9.0 cm, with the watch case measuring 2.1 cm in width. The design incorporates tiered sugarloaf and cabochon rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, alongside onyx elements and red enamel borders. The watch face is circular, featuring Roman numerals, a red enamel outer ring, and a ring-shaped pierced emerald center.
Condition and Mechanical Status
The internal mechanical movement has not been accessed by a watchmaker due to the object's fragility. The watch is not working at the time of cataloguing, and the movement has not been tested for accuracy; a service is recommended. Reported condition includes minor abrasions to the platinum, minor chips and cracks to the gemstones, minor lacks in the enamel, and chips on the onyx. Diamonds are estimated to be G to H colour, with VS to SI clarity.
Material Composition and Markings
The assembly is constructed using platinum, which was tested by the Paris Regional Customs Authority to a fineness of 850‰. Due to the fragility of the object, the case was exempted from standard assay marking, though the pinstem carries an official French import assay mark for platinum. The gemstone setting includes old- and single-cut diamonds alongside sugarloaf and round cabochon colored stones. The object is signed 'Cartier Paris' and is noted as 'numbered' by the source.

Identification

Source note
Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

  • Research required: Source condition report notes the mechanical movement was not working at the time of cataloguing and was not opened due to fragility
  • Research required: Specific serial number is omitted by the auctioneer, catalogued simply as 'numbered'
  • Research required: The case was exempted from assay marking due to fragility, though the pinstem carries a French import assay mark for platinum (850‰)
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