Cartier Bébé Guillotine Wristwatch
Record status
Individual type · partial
Period
circa 1934-1935
Maker / issuer
CartierThis Cartier 'Bébé Guillotine' wristwatch, dating to the mid-1930s, features a unique concealed-dial mechanism. Originally conceived as a purse watch, this example was modified by Cartier Paris for the English market, characterized by its 18K yellow gold two-body case with black enamel accents and Roman numerals on the bezel.
When the ends are compressed, dual shutters retract to reveal the dial. The watch is powered by a rhodium-plated, 19-jewel movement produced by European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., featuring fausses cotes decoration and a straight-line lever escapement. The off-white dial displays a painted minute track and blued steel Breguet hands. This piece is fitted with a deployant clasp in 18K pink gold and reflects a specialized production run where approximately 50 such pieces were adapted as wristwatches and subsequently imported to London, as evidenced by the period hallmarks found on the case.
Evidence at a glance
- Linked sources
- 1
- Photograph views
- 1
- Catalogue references
- 0
Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.
Technical characteristics
- Type
- Concealed-dial wristwatch
- Maker
- Cartier
- Dating
- 1934-5
- Dimensions
- 20 x 38 mm
- Case Material
- 18K yellow gold
- Movement Type
- Rhodium plated, 19 jewels
- Movement Maker
- European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.
- Place recorded
- France
- Serial Numbers
- 23188/27925/1169
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier
Design
- Visible features
- • Case features two shutters that open to reveal the dial • Bezel decorated with black enamel radial Roman numerals • Movement features fausses cotes finishing • Movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.
- Case and Dial Design
- The watch is constructed with a solid, two-body case finished in 18K yellow gold. A defining feature of this model is the black enamel radial Roman numeral display integrated directly into the bezel. The watch functions as a concealed-dial piece: upon pressing the ends of the case, two internal shutters open to expose the dial beneath. The dial itself is painted off-white and includes a painted minute track. Time is indicated by blued steel Breguet-style hands. The case includes hooded lugs and is paired with an 18K pink gold deployant clasp.
- Provenance and Historical Context
- This watch belongs to a small production run of approximately 50 pieces modified by Cartier Paris from an original purse watch design into a wristwatch format. These pieces were specifically intended for the English market and imported into London in the 1930s, as confirmed by the presence of English import hallmarks on the case. The watch is officially identified by its serial number and model designation.
- Movement and Mechanical Specifications
- The internal mechanism is a 7 3/4''' movement manufactured by the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Technically, the watch utilizes a straight-line lever escapement and a cut bimetallic balance, managed by a flat blued steel balance spring and an index regulator. It is adjusted to 8 positions. The movement is signed by the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., while the dial bears the signature of Cartier.
Identification
- Serial number
- 23188/27925/1169
- Source note
- Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.
Catalogue references
No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.
Research required
- Research required: Movement is reported to require an overhaul
- Research required: Case and dial are noted as having slight chips