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Cartier 'Fancy Lug' Automatic Dress Watch

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

circa 1958

Maker / issuer

Cartier

This Cartier 'Fancy Lug' automatic dress watch dates to circa 1958. It is constructed from 14k yellow gold and measures approximately 33mm in diameter. The design features a stepped case with stylized lugs and a caseback secured by a steel ring.

The sunburst gold dial is equipped with faceted applied indices and is signed 'Cartier' on the upper half and 'Automatic' on the lower half. The watch is powered by an automatic-winding movement that includes a Cartier-signed rotor. The caseback is also signed by Cartier. According to the source, the watch was manufactured by the New York-based firm Bulova, which operated as a subcontractor for Cartier during this period.

The watch shows evidence of surface wear and polishing consistent with age while maintaining original factory finishing.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources
1
Photograph views
1
Catalogue references
0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Type
Automatic dress watch
Material
14k yellow gold
Dial details
Sunburst gold finish with faceted applied indices
Manufacturer
Bulova
Case diameter
Approximately 33mm
Place recorded
United States
Maker / attribution
Cartier

Design

Visible features
• Case features stepped construction with stylized fancy lugs • Sunburst gold dial with faceted applied hour indices • Caseback secured by a steel ring • Crown located on the right side of the case
Case and Dial Design
The watch is housed in a 14k yellow gold case measuring approximately 33mm in diameter. Its construction is characterized by a stepped profile and distinctive stylized fancy lugs. The assembly includes a caseback secured by a steel ring. The overall exterior shows signs of normal wear and polishing from age, while the vendor notes the retention of the factory-applied finishing. The dial exhibits a sunburst gold finish and is appointed with faceted applied indices. It displays the Cartier signature in black ink on the top portion and the word 'Automatic' printed on the lower half. The dial is reported to be in good condition.
Signatures and Markings
The watch identifies as a Cartier product through several markings. The dial bears the Cartier signature in black text, positioned above the center of the watch face. The automatic rotor within the movement is also signed by the brand. Additionally, the caseback features the Cartier signature along with various technical specifications related to the watch's construction.
Movement and Manufacturer Details
The timepiece is driven by an automatic-winding movement. A notable feature is the oscillating weight, which is signed by Cartier. The watch originates from a period when Cartier subcontracted production to various manufacturers to meet demand for their timepieces. The vendor identifies the manufacturer of this specific example as the New York-based brand Bulova, dating the production to approximately 1958.

Identification

Source note
Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

  • Research required: The exact movement caliber is not specified
  • Research required: The specific manufacturing arrangement between Bulova and Cartier for this model is not documented beyond the vendor's claim
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