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Cartier gold and enamel fob watch with chain

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

circa 1910

Maker / issuer

Cartier

This Cartier fob watch, dating to approximately 1910, is constructed from 18K gold, enamel, and diamonds. The piece is an extra-slim keyless watch accompanied by a coordinating chain.

The case features translucent blue enamel over engine-turning, decorated with a paillon laurel leaf circle and a center rose-cut diamond. The bezels are finished in opaque white enamel. The silver dial is engine-turned and displays radial Roman numerals, complemented by blued steel Breguet hands. The watch is powered by a 10-ligne gilt brass bar caliber movement containing 15 jewels. It incorporates a straight-line lever escapement, a cut bimetallic compensation balance, and a flat balance spring.

The chain mirrors the watch's materials, featuring long links of translucent blue enamel over engine-turning, separated by small pearls. The dial is signed by Cartier, with Paris and Londres listed in the source provenance documentation.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources
1
Photograph views
1
Catalogue references
0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Dial
Silver with radial Roman numerals
Type
Fob watch
Balance
Cut bimetallic compensation balance
Material
18K gold, enamel, diamonds
Movement
15-jewel gilt brass bar caliber
Escapement
Straight line lever
Place recorded
France
Watch Diameter
31 mm
Chain composition
Translucent blue enamel and small pearls
Maker / attribution
Cartier

Design

Visible features
• Blue enamel surfaces show engine-turned texture beneath • Case bezels are accented with opaque white enamel simulating half pearls • Watch dial displays radial Roman numerals • Chain includes small pearls as alternating elements
Case and Dial Design
The fob watch case is a three-piece construction made of 18K gold. The back cover is finished in translucent blue enamel applied over an engine-turned ground. At the center of the back cover sits a laurel leaf motif in paillon, centered by a rose-cut diamond. The bezels surrounding the crystal and the back are decorated with opaque white enamel, providing an appearance of half pearls. The dial is crafted from silver and features an engine-turned surface. It is marked with radial Roman numerals to indicate the time, and the time is read using blued steel Breguet-style hands. The watch is signed by Cartier. The accompanying chain matches the watch's aesthetic, utilizing long links finished with blue enamel over engine-turning, accented by small white pearls throughout the design.
Condition and Attribution
The object is attributed to Cartier, Paris, Londres, and dated to approximately 1910. The auction house has provided a condition grading system for the lot. The watch case is rated as grade 3 (Good). The dial is rated as 3-01 (Good), and the original hands are noted as present.
Movement and Mechanical Specifications
The watch operates on a gilt brass, bar caliber movement measuring 23 mm in diameter (10 lignes). The movement is built with 15 jewels. The watch utilizes a straight-line lever escapement mechanism. To ensure timing stability across temperature variations, the movement includes a cut bimetallic compensation balance. This is paired with a flat balance spring to regulate the oscillation of the balance wheel.

Identification

Source note
Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

  • Research required: Condition of the movement is described with a recommendation for overhaul
  • Research required: Specific mechanical performance is not verified beyond the stated component list
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