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Cartier Montre Couteau

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

1980s

Maker / issuer

Cartier

This Cartier Montre Couteau is a thin, 18K yellow gold keyless dress watch produced in the 1980s. The timepiece is accompanied by a long 18K gold chain and is signed by Cartier on the dial, case, and movement.

It features a two-body, polished knife-edge case with a wide bezel and a winding crown set with a cabochon sapphire, surmounted by a triangular bow. The matte silver dial exhibits a sunburst engine-turned pattern, radial Roman numerals, an outer minute track, and blued steel Breguet hands. Internally, the watch is powered by a 16-line rhodium-plated movement featuring fausses cotes decoration and twenty jewels. The mechanism is equipped with a straight-line lever escapement, a free-sprung monometallic balance, a flat balance spring, and a shock absorber.

The object measures 49 mm in diameter with a thickness of 6.3 mm.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources
1
Photograph views
1
Catalogue references
0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Date
1980s
Type
Dress watch
Maker
Cartier
Diameter
49 mm
Thickness
6.3 mm
Case material
18K yellow gold
Place recorded
France
Movement details
20 jewels
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Movement decoration
fausses cotes

Design

Visible features
• Winding crown is set with a cabochon sapphire. • Dial features a sunburst engine-turned finish. • Chain is composed of elongated rectangular links joined by smaller circular rings. • Features a distinctive triangular bow at the top of the case.
Case and Dial Design
The timepiece is presented in a two-body, knife-edge case crafted from 18K yellow gold. The case design is characterized by a polished finish and a wide bezel, reflecting a minimalist aesthetic. A notable detail is the winding crown, which is set with a cabochon sapphire, and the assembly is topped with a triangular bow for attachment to the included 18K gold long chain. The matte silver dial is finished with a sunburst engine-turned pattern. The time is indicated by radial Roman numerals and an outer minute track. The display is complemented by a set of blued steel Breguet-style hands, which contrast against the metallic surface of the dial. The dial is signed by the manufacturer.
Movement and Escapement
The watch is powered by a rhodium-plated, 16-line movement. The finish on the plates consists of fausses cotes decoration. The movement is constructed with 20 jewels and incorporates a shock-absorbing system to protect the balance staff. Technical features of the movement include a straight-line lever escapement. The timing regulation is handled by a free-sprung monometallic balance paired with a flat balance spring. The movement is signed, consistent with the case and dial.
Condition and Attribution
The auction description provides a grading for the components of the watch. The overall grade for the piece is recorded as AA, which is interpreted as very good. The case is categorized as being in good condition with slight scratching observed, while the movement is noted as being in very good condition, with a recommendation that an overhaul be performed. The watch is documented as a Cartier piece, produced in Paris during the 1980s. It carries case numbers 3972 and A107969.

Identification

Reference
3972
Serial number
A107969
Source note
Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

  • Research required: The movement reference is listed as '16???' suggesting the full reference number is unknown or unclear.
  • Research required: The auction house states an overhaul is recommended, but the exact mechanical condition beyond this recommendation is not specified.
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