Cartier, Paris platinum and diamond-set pendant watch with pearl and diamond-set chatelaine

Technical characteristics

Type

Pendant watch

Assay mark

French eagle’s head

Dial signature

Cartier Paris, Bte S.G.D.G.

Place recorded

France

Case dimensions

28 x 28 mm

Movement caliber

10¼’’’ circular movement

Maker / attribution

Cartier, Paris

Chatelaine construction

Woven flexible pearl chain terminating in diamond-set panel

Design

Visible features

• Cushion-shaped platinum case with a diamond-set winding crown positioned at the 6 o'clock base • Silvered dial showing aged patination, radiating Roman numerals, and blued Breguet hands • Chatelaine composed of woven pearls attached to a stylized openwork bar and terminating in a square diamond-set floral panel

Dial and Chatelaine Details

Direct observation and source records describe a silvered engine-turned sunburst patterned dial centered with a stylized flower-form motif and surrounded by an inner chemin-de-fer minute track. Radial Roman numerals extend outwards to the bezel, indicated by blued steel Breguet hands. The dial is signed 'Cartier Paris, Bte S.G.D.G.' (Breveté Sans Garantie Du Gouvernement). Attached at the upper lug is a short chatelaine formed of a woven flexible pearl chain. It terminates in a platinum millegrain diamond-set panel with an openwork square frame enclosing radiating leaf-like forms around a central diamond, fitted with a pendant hook at the back.

Case Construction and Hallmarking

The pendant watch features a cushion-form platinum case measuring 28 by 28 mm, with a reported total length of approximately 90 mm including its chatelaine. The structure incorporates a slim polished bezel secured by eight screws to the underside, noted in catalog notes as closely following an Edmond Jaeger patent (no. 421746) filed on October 22, 1910. Broad stylized buckle-form lugs with millegrain rose-cut diamonds attach to the chatelaine, while a diamond-set beaded winding crown sits at the base. Internal case surfaces bear multiple hand-stamped numbers and French eagle's head assay marks, which the catalog notes was applied to platinum prior to the introduction of the dog's head mark in December 1912. The interior of the case top is stamped 10'642, 1; the mid-body interior is stamped 10'642, 3'639; and the inside case back is stamped 4'902 and 10'642 alongside an Edmond Jaeger punch mark. Though not visible in the obverse catalog photograph, source documentation lists a polished case back with diamond-set edges and a millegrain rose-cut diamond-set framed monogram 'MB'.

Reported Movement and Documentation

The movement is not visible in the catalog image and is described from seller technical documentation. It is recorded as a 10¼-ligne circular movement signed Cartier, Paris, decorated with damascened Côtes de Genève, featuring a lever escapement, 18 jewels, a bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, eight adjustments, and a flat hairspring. The movement plate beneath the dial is reported as hand-stamped with the numbers 10'642, 1. Sotheby's records that the watch is offered without box or papers.

Identification

Serial number

10'642

Source note

Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.