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Fr. Retz & Cie. Minute-Repeating Chronograph Pocket Watch

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

circa 1890

This Fr. Retz & Cie. pocket watch, produced circa 1890, is a hunting-cased, keyless, minute-repeating instrument featuring a single-button chronograph. Housed in an 18K yellow gold "bassine et filets" case, it measures 53 mm in diameter and exhibits extensive engine-turned decoration.

The timepiece is accompanied by its original fitted box and certificate. The movement is a 20-ligne caliber constructed from maillechort with "fausses côtes" finishing. It incorporates a straight-line counterpoised lever escapement, 30 jewels, a cut bimetallic compensation balance, and a steel Breguet balance-spring regulated by a swan-neck micrometer. The minute-repeating function is operated via a slide on the case band, while the chronograph is controlled by a single button.

The white enamel dial displays radial Roman numerals and subsidiary seconds, complemented by pink gold "Louis XVI" style hands set with diamonds. The watch is signed on the dial and numbered across the movement, case, and cuvette.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources
1
Photograph views
1
Catalogue references
0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Type
Minute repeating pocket watch
Maker
Fr. Retz & Cie.
Diameter
53 mm
Jewel count
30
Case material
18K yellow gold
Dial features
White enamel with Roman numerals
Serial Number
21215
Place recorded
Switzerland
Movement caliber
20 ligne
Maker / attribution
Fr. Retz & Cie.

Design

Visible features
• Engine-turned gold hunting case • Pink gold hands with diamond settings • Numbered cuvette and case interior • Certificate of origin present in box
Condition and Attribution
The auction description provides a grading assessment for the watch. The overall grade for the lot is listed as AA. The object includes an original fitted box and a certificate of authenticity. The watch is signed on the dial, with the serial number repeated on the movement, case, and internal cuvette.
Case and Dial Construction
The timepiece is housed in an 18K yellow gold hunting case, characterized by a "bassine et filets" design. The external surfaces of the case feature engine-turned decoration. It includes a hinged gold cuvette protecting the movement, located behind a glazed cover. The white enamel dial features radial Roman numerals with an outer track for minutes and 1/5th seconds for the chronograph. A sunk subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at the base of the dial. The watch features pink gold "Louis XVI" hands which are set with diamonds.
Movement and Complications
The movement is a 20-ligne caliber constructed of maillechort and finished with "fausses côtes" decoration. It contains 30 jewels and utilizes a straight-line counterpoised lever escapement. Regulation is achieved through a steel Breguet balance-spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator, paired with a cut bimetallic compensation balance. The watch features a minute-repeating complication activated by a slide on the case band. Additionally, a single-button chronograph is operated via a button located on the band.

Identification

Serial number
21215
Source note
Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

  • Research required: The auction house reports poor mechanical condition requiring overhaul
  • Research required: The dial condition is described as poor in the grading assessment
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