Gregson à Paris 18ct Gold and Enamel Slim Pocket Watch
Record status
Individual type · partial
Period
circa 1780
This 18ct gold and enamel slim pocket watch by Gregson à Paris dates to approximately 1780. The watch is constructed with a double-body, lenticular case, featuring bezels and a pendant decorated with champlevé paillonné motifs.
The reverse of the case is finished in enamel, displaying a detailed scene of two women and a soldier in a landscape setting near a military camp. The watch retains its glazed gilt brass protecting case. It features a white enamel dial with Roman numerals and gold pierced hands. The movement is a very thin, hinged gilt brass Hessen's calibre, which incorporates a going barrel passing through the back plate, a brass cylinder escapement, and a three-arm balance with a flat balance spring.
The watch is signed on the dial and the back plate, and its provenance includes the Muller collection in Milan, with previous publication in E. Morpurgo's research on precious watches.
Evidence at a glance
- Linked sources
- 1
- Photograph views
- 1
- Catalogue references
- 0
Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.
Technical characteristics
- Type
- Slim pocket watch
- Maker
- Gregson à Paris
- Diameter
- 54 mm
- Material
- 18 ct. gold and enamel
- Escapement
- Brass cylinder
- Provenance
- Muller collection, Milan
- Publication
- E. Morpurgo, 1955
- Movement type
- Hessen's calibre
- Place recorded
- France
- Maker / attribution
- Gregson à Paris
Design
- Visible features
- • Champlevé paillonné decoration on the pendant and bezel • Painted enamel scene on the case back • Glazed gilt brass protecting case included • White enamel dial with Roman numerals
- Movement and Construction
- The internal mechanism is a very thin, hinged gilt brass movement utilizing the Hessen's calibre. A characteristic element of this calibre is the going barrel, which passes through the back plate, contributing to the slim profile of the watch. The escapement is a brass cylinder type, paired with a plain gilt brass three-arm balance and a flat balance spring. The watch is signed by the maker on both the dial and the back plate, verifying its identification. These movements were associated with the innovations of André Hessen, and this watch represents the thin design style produced by Gregson during this period. The source indicates this piece is a representative example of this specific style of production.
- Case and Enamel Decoration
- The watch is housed in an 18ct gold case designed with a double-body, lenticular form. The exterior surfaces, specifically the bezels and the pendant, are adorned with champlevé paillonné decoration. This ornamental technique complements the central feature of the case back, which is an enamel painting rendered in fine pastel colours. The decorative scene depicts two women and a soldier positioned within a landscape, situated in proximity to a military camp. The entire construction is protected by a glazed gilt brass outer case.
- Provenance and Documentation
- The watch is noted to have belonged to the Muller collection in Milan. It was documented and illustrated in the book 'Precious watches from the XVIth to the XIXth century' by E. Morpurgo, published in 1955. This historical record serves to confirm the watch's recognition in academic literature concerning the development of thin timepieces. Regarding the origin of the maker, Pierre Gregson is cited as an eminent foreign maker based in Paris. The source draws stylistic and technical parallels between Gregson's work and that of André Hessen, suggesting that their workshop practices were closely aligned or potentially shared during the late 18th century.
Identification
- Source note
- Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.
Catalogue references
No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.
Research required
- Research required: The exact extent of collaboration or interaction between Gregson and Hessen remains speculative.
- Research required: Attribution of the specific enamel painting style to Hessen is suggested as a possibility by the source.