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L. Fernier & Frères 18K pink gold keyless lever chronometer

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

circa 1890

This 18K pink gold pocket watch is attributed to the maker L. Fernier & Frères, Besançon, circa 1890. It features a "bassine et filets" four-body case with an engine-turned back, accompanied by its original wooden fitted box.

The watch includes a gold hinged cuvette that opens to reveal a glazed gold bezel, allowing for a clear view of the movement. A specific gold bolt is positioned at 11 o'clock to engage the winding mechanism. The watch is powered by a 44 mm (19 1/2''') frosted gilt half-plate movement containing 20 jewels, with top jewels secured in raised gold settings. A distinct technical feature of this timepiece is its specialized over-winding prevention mechanism, which automatically disengages the winding process upon full tension to protect the mainspring from potential breakage.

The dial and case are both signed by the maker.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources
1
Photograph views
1
Catalogue references
0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Type
Keyless lever chronometer
Maker
L. Fernier & Frères
Case Type
Four-body bassine et filets
Jewel Count
20
Case Material
18K pink gold
Dial Features
White enamel with subsidiary seconds
Place recorded
France
Movement Diameter
44 mm (19 1/2''')
Winding Mechanism
Over-winding prevention
Maker / attribution
L. Fernier & Frères

Design

Case and Dial
The pocket watch is housed in an 18K pink gold four-body case designed in the "bassine et filets" style. The reverse of the case is decorated with engine-turned patterns. A gold hinged cuvette provides protection for the internal movement while allowing access for viewing through a glazed gold bezel. Externally, the watch is fitted with a gold bolt at the 11 o'clock position intended to engage the winding mechanism. The watch face consists of a white enamel dial featuring radial Roman numeral hour markers and an outer minute track punctuated by Arabic numerals at five-minute intervals. The time is displayed via gold spade-style hands, and a subsidiary sunk seconds dial is positioned on the main dial surface. Both the case and the dial bear the signature of the maker.
Visible features
• Frosted gilt half-plate movement finish • Glazed bezel visible beneath the gold cuvette • Visible bolt at 11 o'clock for winding • Engine-turned detailing on the case back
Movement and Escapement
The timepiece is powered by a 44 mm (19 1/2''') frosted gilt half-plate movement. It is equipped with 20 jewels, with those in the upper section housed in raised gold settings. The escapement is a straight line calibrated lever type, paired with a cut-bimetallic compensation balance and a blued steel Breguet balance spring. The watch includes a technical system intended to prevent over-winding. This mechanism operates by disengaging the winding system once the mainspring reaches its full tension capacity.
Condition and Attribution
The object is attributed to L. Fernier & Frères of Besançon, with an approximate production date of 1890. The watch is supplied in its original wooden fitted box. The auction house lists the watch as a rare example due to the inclusion of the specialized over-winding prevention mechanism. The authenticity of the watch is supported by signatures found on both the dial and the case. All functional components are original as described in the catalogue entry.

Identification

Source note
Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

  • Research required: The exact provenance history beyond the original box is not documented
  • Research required: The auction house recommends an overhaul for the movement
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