Patek Philippe Reference 3990P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

circa 2000

Maker / issuer

This Patek Philippe Reference 3990P is an astronomic wristwatch featuring a perpetual calendar, moon phase display, and a column-wheel chronograph. Crafted in platinum, the watch is notable for its diamond-set bezel containing 40 tapered, baguette-shaped diamonds.

The black dial includes applied baton and square diamond hour markers, alongside subsidiary dials for the 24-hour cycle, constant seconds, 30-minute register, and leap-year indication. The watch is powered by the manual-wind Caliber CH 27-70 Q, which is rhodium-plated and features the Seal of Geneva. It is equipped with a sapphire crystal case back and accompanied by a platinum buckle, an additional solid case back, and the original Certificate of Origin.

Produced in limited numbers, this model represents a variant of the Reference 3970 platform, distinguished by its gem-set bezel. The watch measures 36 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources: 1
Photograph views: 1
Catalogue references: 0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Seal: Seal of Geneva Quality Mark
Type: Perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
Case Number: 4197927
Case Diameter: 36 mm
Case Thickness: 13 mm
Place recorded: Switzerland
Movement Number: 3046782
Movement Caliber: CH 27-70 Q
Maker / attribution: Patek Philippe
Diamond specifications: 40 tapered, baguette-shaped diamonds

Design

Case and Dial: The watch is housed in a two-body platinum case with a polished finish and fluted lugs. A defining feature is the bezel, which is set with 40 tapered, baguette-shaped diamonds described as Top Wesselton quality. The case is water-resistant and includes a screwed-down transparent sapphire crystal case back, allowing view of the movement. An additional solid platinum case back is provided with the lot. The dial is black and features both baton and square diamond hour markers. It is arranged with a perpetual calendar system, displaying the days of the week, months, and moon phases through apertures, while the date and leap year are tracked via subsidiary dials. Chronograph functionality is provided by a 30-minute register and a central seconds hand, complemented by an outer 1/5th second scale.
Visible features: • Bezel set with 40 baguette-shaped diamonds • Black dial with diamond hour markers • Subsidiary dials for perpetual calendar and chronograph functions • Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Movement and Mechanism: The timepiece is powered by the manual-wound Caliber CH 27-70 Q, a movement based on the Lemania ebauche. It is rhodium-plated and finished with fausses cotes decoration. The movement incorporates 24 jewels and a straight-line lever escapement. The Glucydur Gyromax balance is adjusted for heat, cold, isochronism, and 8 positions, utilizing a self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring. The chronograph mechanism employs a column wheel for function control. The perpetual calendar system is engineered to remain accurate until the year 2100 without manual adjustment. The movement is officially stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark, acknowledging its technical construction and finish standards.
Provenance and Documentation: The watch is accompanied by its fitted box and the original Certificate of Origin. It also includes a setting pin for the calendar functions and an additional platinum case back. According to the provided notes, this reference is no longer in production and was manufactured in limited quantities. Condition reports for the watch are provided by the auction house, which grades the case as very good and the movement and dial as 'as new' (1). The hands are noted as original to the watch.

Identification

Reference: 3990P
Serial number: 4197927
Source note: Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

Research required: The source description contains a claim that this is the 'first white gold example' offered at auction, which appears contradictory to its platinum designation
Research required: The source includes notes suggesting only three other examples have been auctioned, a claim that cannot be independently verified here

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