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Vacheron & Constantin Keyless Dress Watch

ProbableCredible evidence exists but classification is not fully established.

Record status

Individual type · partial

Period

circa 1920

Maker / issuer

Vacheron Constantin

This 18K yellow gold keyless dress watch, numbered 336252, was manufactured by Vacheron & Constantin for the retailer Anquetin, located at 77 Rue D'Aboukir, Paris.

Dating to approximately 1920, the watch is housed in a four-body polished 'demi-bassine' case measuring 50 mm in diameter. The case back features a monogram, and the watch includes a hinged gold cuvette. The matte silver dial is finished with an engine-turned center, black Arabic numerals, an outer minute track, and a subsidiary seconds dial. Gold spade hands, identified in the auction documentation as later replacements, indicate the time.

The movement is a 17-ligne frosted gilt caliber containing 15 jewels. It features wolf's tooth winding, a straight-line lever escapement, a cut bimetallic compensation balance, and a blued steel Breguet balance spring with an index regulator. The dial, case, and movement bear the manufacturer's signatures, while the cuvette is signed by the retailer.

Evidence at a glance

Linked sources
1
Photograph views
1
Catalogue references
0

Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.

Technical characteristics

Type
Open-face watch
Maker
Vacheron & Constantin
Retailer
Anquetin, Paris
Case type
Four-body demi-bassine
Escapement
Straight-line lever
Case Serial
204920
Dial finish
Matte silver with engine-turned center
Place recorded
Switzerland
Movement Serial
336252
Movement caliber
17-ligne
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin

Design

Case and Dial
The watch is enclosed in an 18K yellow gold, four-body case of the 'demi-bassine' type. The exterior surfaces are polished, and the case back is inscribed with a monogram. A hinged inner gold cuvette protects the movement and carries the signature of the retailer, Anquetin. The matte silver dial displays a central engine-turned pattern. It is arranged with black-painted Arabic numerals and an outer minute track. A subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at the bottom of the dial. The time is shown via gold spade hands, which the auction description identifies as later replacements. The dial is signed by Vacheron & Constantin.
Visible features
• Case features a polished finish with a monogrammed back • Matte silver dial includes engine-turned decoration in the center • Gold spade-shaped hands are present • Movement is finished with frosted gilding
Movement and Escapement
The watch is powered by a 17-ligne movement featuring a frosted gilt finish. It is constructed with 15 jewels and incorporates wolf's tooth winding wheels. The movement design utilizes a straight-line lever escapement to transfer power to the balance assembly. Frequency regulation is managed by a cut bimetallic compensation balance paired with a blued steel Breguet balance spring. An index regulator is included to facilitate timing adjustments. The movement is signed by Vacheron & Constantin and appears to be in a condition that the auction description suggests necessitates an overhaul.
Signatures and Attribution
The watch is attributed to Vacheron & Constantin, with individual signatures found on the dial, the case, and the movement. The manufacture date is estimated to be circa 1920. The watch was produced specifically for the Parisian retailer Anquetin, whose address and specific reference number are recorded on the cuvette. The documentation provided by the auction house includes movement serial 336252 and case serial 204920. The retailer is identified as located at 77 Rue D'Aboukir, Paris, with the retailer's own reference number recorded as 7481.

Identification

Serial number
336252 (movement), 204920 (case)
Source note
Facts transcribed from the linked source listing or collection record. Attribution and specifications are source-reported and have not been independently authenticated.

Catalogue references

No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.

Research required

  • Research required: The auction description specifies that the hands are later replacements
  • Research required: The auction description recommends an overhaul for the movement
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