Tobacco pouch, 1850

For most of the Edo period (1615–1868), Japan operated a ‘closed country’ policy that severely restricted foreign relations. The Dutch East India Company were permitted to trade however, and they brought foreign fabrics to Japan where they were known as sarasa. The fabric of this pouch was made on the Coromandel Coast of India specifically for the Japanese market.

It dates to the 18th century and would have been taken to Japan by the Dutch soon after it was produced. Sarasa was popularly used for under kimono and obi (waist sash), but it was expensive and most lengths were cut up and used to make small accessories. The condition of the fabric of this object suggests much use, but whether it was originally made into a pouch or was first used for another purpose is unclear. It was made or augmented into its highly sophisticated present form in the mid-19th century. The ojime, the bead that holds the cords together, is European and was probably made in Amsterdam, being presumably also brought to Japan by the Dutch East India Company, although it is unclear when. Its use adds to the pouch's 'exotic' foreign appearance making this a highly fashionable dress accessory which would have been worn by a very stylish man about town.

Tobacco pouch of one continuous piece of fabric, wrapped into three to make the front body, back and flap. This fabric is hand-drawn mordant- and resist-dyed cotton made on the Coromandel Coast of India specifically for export to Japan. The fabric has a pattern of roundels and wheels interspersed with flowers in red, dark blue and (undyed) cream on a pale blue ground. The lining is of deerskin leather. There are two interior sections, the leather division between them being partly stencil-dyed blue with a white stylised iris pattern. The shibuichi (copper and silver alloy) clasp on the front flap is of a monkey holding its young and a branch of persimmon fruits with details in gold, silver and copper. The clasp is signed Shūraku. A silver clasp on the opposite side of the flap, carved using a technique called katakiri-bori, depicts a waterfall and is signed Baido. The pouch is trimmed with leather, although this does not extend across the bottom. The pouch has a netsuke (toggle) of ivory carved with four monkeys, two adults and two young, one holding grapes. The red, blue and white ojime (bead) is of glass and has a distinctive chevron pattern.

It is a trade bead, made in either Amsterdam or Venice. The netsuke and ojime are attached to the pouch with silk cords which pass through a metal fitting with two holes on the top of the pouch.