Wristwatch, Bulgari Tubogas, 1970s

Model: Tubogas Reference: G.1164-4 Case Material: 18K yellow and white gold Bracelet Material: 18K yellow gold Bulgari bracelet, approximate length 155mm Year: Circa 1970s Movement: Automatic, 17 jewels Case N°: 2'576 Dimensions: 22mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial and movement In the late 1940s, the Serpenti was born, a bracelet watch whose body coils around the wrist using the Tubogas technique — a continuous tube formed by winding strips of gold without soldering, inspired by the industrial gas pipes of the 1920s.

Revived to striking effect during the 1970s and 1980s, this distinctive craftsmanship became one of the Maison’s most emblematic signatures. The bracelet, crafted in 18K yellow gold, coils around the wrist in several continuous turns, with no visible fastening mechanism. The round case houses a rich black dial, enhanced by applied gilt Arabic numerals and hour markers, together with simple gold baton hands. The resulting chromatic contrast between the deep black of the dial and the brilliance of the two-tone case is particularly striking. The crown, set with a cabochon, completes the composition with a refined touch.

Combining the architectural rigour of its two-tone case with the timeless sensuality of the Tubogas bracelet, the present example illustrates Bulgari’s remarkable ability to continually reinterpret its iconic serpentine design. the case retains its voluptuous curves and crisp definition, while the Tubogas bracelet remains taut, supple and beautifully articulated. The subtle interplay between the contrasting gold tones and the architectural construction of the bracelet results in a timepiece that transcends its purely horological function to become a true work of wearable art.