Hat badge with a bust, possibly of an emperor, gold, England, 1530 - 1540.

Renaissance hat badges had their origins in badges worn by pilgrims and soldiers, which were frequently made in base metals and mass-produced. When executed for the court, the finest hat badges became superb small-scale works of art.

They displayed both the taste and interests of the wearer and the virtuosity of the goldsmith. This badge was probably made in an English workshop, because a number of other jewels resembling it in type have inscriptions in English. The badge shows an ancient Roman warrior, possibly an emperor, wearing armour and a lionskin, one of the attributes of the legendary hero Hercules who slew the Nemean lion. The head gazes out from a roundel, similar to those found on Roman triumphal arches.

The subject shows the appeal of ancient Rome and Greece to the Renaissance mind. This jewel was purchased by the Museum for £68 from the collection of Alessandro Castellani (1823-1883), the famous Italian jeweller and dealer in antiquities. At the time the object was thought to be 'Ancient Roman', and was attached by chains to two small female heads and a winged putto (cherub).