Fan leaf, bobbin and needle lace with monogram HSE, Brussels, 1860s
Record status
Individual type · partial
Period
1860s
Lace has been used to decorate fans since the 17th century, but was particularly fashionable in this form from the mid 19th century up until the First World War (1914-1918). Even during periods when lace flounces and shawls were less popular, lace fans provided an outlet for manufacturers, with their relatively small size providing a focus for skilled design and technique.
Fan leaves could be commissioned and personalised, and this example incorporates the monogram HSE. It is likely to have been made for Henriette Sophie Everts, who was born in 1840 into a Dutch family who later lived in Brussels. She died in her twenties in 1869, so the fan leaf may have remained unused because of her tragic early death. It passed down through her family until its donation to the Museum. Unused fan leaf, with design in bobbin lace, and monogram in needle lace, applied to machine-made net. The design is of conventional floral motifs on an open net ground. The monogram in the centre has the letters H S E; the letter S is decorated with raised buttonholed spots. The lace is ecru-coloured.
Evidence at a glance
- Linked sources
- 1
- Photograph views
- 2
- Catalogue references
- 0
Counts describe this entry’s documentation, not authenticity, rarity or completeness. Photographs may show one specimen; check each caption and licence.
Historical context
Donated by Lady Logan from the collection of her parents, Robert and Alexandra Everts. Robert Everts (b. Brussels 12 Sept. 1875; d. Brussels 30 April 1942) was born in Brussels the son of the Dutch Consul who adopted Belgian nationality c.1898 and entered the Belgian Diplomatic Service, serving in Paris (1900-09), Mexico (1901-02) and Bucharest (1902-06). He married Alexandra (b. Corfu 4 Feb.
1880; d. Brussels 1961) whose mother was Angelia née Calvocoressi and who chose the family name Comnene, in Brussels in 1913. Alexandra accompanied her husband in his foreign postings to Peking between 1910-16 and again in 1920-24, Berlin 1924-31 and Madrid 1932-29 after which the couple resided in Brussels.
Together they formed collections of Mexican armour, Mexican textiles, Puebla ceramics, Spanish colonial glass; Chinese textiles, Chinese and Japanese lacquer, Chinese furniture, ceramics and metalwork; and they preserved inherited period lace. Parts of these collections have been acquired by museums internationally: The British Museum: Mexican textiles and beadwork (1994 AM3.1, AM7.1-20; 1996 AM10 1-18; 1997 AM4.1)
Mexico City, Franz Mayer Museum: Mexican rebosos and textiles (1994 AD-004, AD-020;DRA-0009, DRA-0025; AD-021, AD-030; DCH-0001, DCH-0010; AD-031, AD-038; DFB-007, DFB-0014); Ecclesiastical embroidered panels, XVI century (2002 09157-01966; DCN-0013, FCF-0011-15; FPA-0013-16) Alexandra Comnene-Everts was herself a proficient artist and designer.
Albums of her drawings of ornament on Chinese monuments (c. 1919-25) have been acquired by the British Library (1998 N Or.15493/1-6) and the bridal tiara she commissioned from Cartier in Paris is on loan to the Victoria & Albert Museum. The acquisitions from this collection in the Victoria & Albert Museum are:
Asian, set of 8 kessus (silk tapestry), late Ming period (T.269-G-1971); feather fan, carved jewelled handle, Chinese, c. 1910 (FE-2008) Fashion, 20th century dress (T.12-2003 – T.17-2003); Textiles, English, French, Belgian and Flemish lace (T.5 to T.10-2003; T.62 to T.65-2008) Ref: Claire Brisby, ‘Angelia Calvocoressi 1840-1929: A Cosmopolitan Life’, Journal of the Hellenic Diaspora, 30.2 (2004), 97-130.
The fan leaf may have belonged to Henriette Sophie Everts (b.Arnhem 22 Nov. 1840-d. 15 Jan 1869 unmarried). She was the sister of Philip Pelgrim Everts (1839-1897), whose son was Robert Everts.
Physical characteristics
- Material
- Bobbin and needle lace applied to machine made net
- Dimensions
- Length: 491 mm; Width: 253 mm
Technical characteristics
- Place recorded
- Brussels
Design
- Marks and inscriptions
- H S E
Identification
- Source note
- Transcribed from the Victoria and Albert Museum, London collection record for this single object (sentences kept verbatim apart from removed sale or rarity wording); how far it represents a wider collectible type has not been independently verified.
- Candidate id
- vam-O170477
- Museum object name
- Fan leaf
- Holding institution
- Victoria and Albert Museum, London
- Museum object number
- T.63-2008
- Museum system number
- O170477
Catalogue references
No catalogue numbers recorded. Numbers are only published once transcribed from a verified edition of a standard catalogue — they are never inferred.
Research required
- Research required: confirm the wider type, maker and dating against a specialist reference; this entry documents one recorded example.